Taste buds will be on red alert here

by Stephanie K. Johnson
North Shore Magazine
February 18, 1988

An adventure in Thai cusine awaits you at Kowloon's newly opened Chinois Bistro (Thai Grille).

Be warned: Thailand's food, a sophisticated blend of the two great Eastern cuisines, Indian and Chinese, can be as hot as its climate. This menu, however, offers a little bit of everything.

We visited the Chinois (pronounced shin-wa) Bistro for both lunch and dinner recently. The new dining room is decorated with soft tones of blue and gray, track lighting and lovely water-color paintings, and tables are set with crisp linens and attractive place settings.

The luncheon menu is less expensive but more limited than the dinner menu, but offers a good variety of beef, chicken and seafood dishes. We began our meal with Kyo Koong ($5.00), which were five, fresh, plump shrimp wrapped in wonton skins, lightly fried and served with a sweet sauce with small bits of hot pepper. The shrimp were delicious and a perfect introduction to our spicier entrees.

We selected the Gai Tud Prik ($4.50), a beautifully served dish of tender pieces of sauteed chicken in a dark, smoky sauce and served with slices of tomato, peppers, onions, scallions, meaty Chinese mushrooms, plenty of cashews, and a cup of white rice. The vegetables were fresh and cooked to perfection (watch out for the small, bright red chilis which can sear the palate).

Our second entree was Nurpud ($4.50), stir-fried beef with green and red pepper slices, baby corn, tomatoes, Chinese mushrooms and just enough curry to require two glasses of water.

While lunches here are leisurely and serene, dinner hours tend to be bustling and busy. The service, however, was just as prompt and courteous on our Saturday night visit.

This time we chose Tom Yum Koong ($2.50), a shrimp soup, as our appetizer. This clear broth made with chili paste, mushrooms, lime juice and lemon grass was surprisingly bland but contained several good-sized shrimp.

The Thai Gulf Madness ($14.50), on of the house specialties, is a dining adventure for the seafood lover. A large platter brimming with chunks of lobster, scallops, shrimp and squid which has been sauteed in hot chili sauce arrived garnished with lettuce and slices of carved orange, cucumber, green pepper, onions and snow peas and served over a bed of littleneck clams still in the shell. It was hot, spicy and delicious.

Curry dishes include a choice of four kinds (red, yellow, green and Masaman) to which you can add chicken, pork, beef, shrimp, scallops, duck or tofu. We chose duck with green curry ($8.25). This colorful dish with succulent slices of roast duck, asparagus, green peas, bamboo shoots and snow peas set our palates ablaze, but we enjoyed every moment.

Rambutan, an Oriental fruit stuffed with a piece of pineapple, was a most soothing and appreciated dessert ($1.75).

Other menu selections include two hot and sour dishes, beef and shrimp, several pan-fried dishes and rice and noodles ranging in price from $7.25 to $12.00. The variety pretty much assures an exotic dining experience for Asian-food lovers.


Stephanie K. Johnson is manager of Newspapers in Education for Essex County Newspapers.
Last updated June 21, 1999