Route 1, with its funky culture, seems the perfect place for it. Where else can you find giant cacti, dinosaurs, plastic cows -- all manner of outrageous pop art enshrined in commercial establishments?
How many neighborhoods have a gigantic Polynesian-Chinese village with a Polynesian idol over the entrance and pagoda-style roof decorations over every gable edge to ward off demons?
Yes, Route 1 caters to the commercially unusual and Kowloon -- intentionally or not -- fits the category nicely. Kowloon is to Route 1 north what the Hilltop steak house is to Route 1 south.
Approaching from Route 1 north, Kowloon is an impressive piece of pop art looming over the landscape. It bills itself as New England's premier Asian dining complex. Indeed, I'm told it seats 1,200, making it one of the largest restaurants in America.
The draw for us was lunch and the fact that we could enjoy both Chinese and Thai cuisine at the same restaurant no matter which dining room we chose. We were greeted pleasantly by an Asian lady and chose to sit in the main dining room by the "lagoon." It's a fun type of place -- thatched roofs, fake palms, Polynesian kitsch.
The Thai Grille is smaller, elegant, with grass wallpaper, simple prints and black lacquer chairs with pink linen tablecloths. Our waitress, Joyce, immediately brought water, condiments, bread and tea. We were given both menus. We asked about MSG -- it is not used in any of the food.
We started with an appetizer from each menu. Peking Ravioli (Chinese: $4.95) and Kyo Koong -- fresh shrimp in fried wonton skins with sweet sauce (Thai: $5.25). There are more than two dozen appetizers -- most of them usual Chinese fare from Crab Rangoon ($4.95) to Peninsula Pu Pu Platter ($16.95). The more unusual items are on the Thai menu, like Steamed Mussels with Aromatic Herbs and White Wine ($5.95) or Tod Mun -- minced shrimp with Thai curry paste deep-fried served with cucumber sauce ($5.95).
Our Peking Ravioli arrived -- hot, hearty bundles of minced pork and spices wrapped in a pasta-like dough and lightly fried after steaming. We enjoyed them with ginger sauce -- basically soy sauce flavored with fresh ginger and bits of scallion. It hit the spot -- good standard Chinese fare.
The Kyo Koong were delicate as the Peking ravioli was hearty. Like little party favors, the wonton is twisted around the shrimp, creating a handle for dipping. They were delicious: the large (de-veined) shrimp were cooked just right. The paper-thin, crunchy wonton had a flavor all its own -- not a sign of grease. The dip was sort of a thin marmalade with a hot pepper tang.
We bypassed the usual combination plate specials. The large Chinese menu includes Hong Kong and Polynesian specialities, a Cantonese and a Szechuan section. I chose a Szechuan Shredded Pork with Garlic Sauce ($6.25). My companion, still into shrimp, wanted a Thai curry so we chose Koong Kale -- shrimp in yellow curry sauce with onions, green peppers, tomatoes, and pineapple ($5.95).
The waitress pointed out that Kowloon is famous for its Mai Tais ($4.95) and, sure enough, my Mai Tai was delicious, generous, and strong.
My shredded pork with garlic sauce was also very generous, served with fried rice and lots of crunchy green and some red pepper chunks. Overall, it was a taste disappointment because everything was smothered in a ho-hum brown sauce which was neither garlicky nor spicy.
However, my companion's curry was a sight for sore eyes -- literally. A beautiful gold color, it was like sunshine on the table -- the sauce peppered with big colorful chunks of tomato, onion, fresh green and red peppers, and pineapple. It tasted as good as it looked with a hot spicy afterbite. The coconut-milk based sauce was just the right thickness to coat the shrimp, vegetables and rice (choice of boiled or fried).
We decided we had to come back to try other selections from the Thai menu. There are various pan-fried combos with a choice of meat or seafood ($6.50 to $8.95) or house specialties like Yum Hed Koong -- hot and sour shrimp, mixed mushrooms with ginger, chili sauce, tomatoes, peanuts, and scallions ($9.25), or Kang Ped Gai -- a hot, spicy chicken in red curry sauce with string beans, bamboo shoots, and green peppers ($5.50) or Pla Jain -- a deep fried whole fish topped with shredded pork, mushrooms, ginger, onions in spicy gravy ($14.50).
Kowloon is at 948 Broadway (Route 1 North) in Saugus near Bob's. Tel: (617) 233-0077. Open 7 days a week from 11:30 am to 2:00 am. Food is served until 1:00 am. in the Chinese section. The Thai Grille closes at 10:30 pm. Smoking and non-smoking sections in both dining rooms. Ample parking. Major credit cards including American Express accepted. No checks. Handicappped accessible.